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When at Dame Marie and further down the coast in Anse d'Hainault, you get the distinct impression that you are at the end of the earth. And you are. Hiking outside these towns you are as remote and cut off from the digital world as you would be in Timbuktu.

We would be remiss to not mention the other drivers and vehicles on the road. We're sad to say that 65% of the vehicles one encounters at night have either no working headlights or only one working headlight. 75% have neither working tail lights nor break lights. This includes heavy trucks that tend to use the middle of the road, even when totally unlit and driving around a blind curve. Drivers tend to be reckless and the vehicles unroadworthy. These are mild statements.

Also, the traveler should know that there are no telephones and, with the exception of Leogane (on Route Natio

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